The world of vintage watches is a fascinating labyrinth of intricate mechanics and subtle variations. Within this realm, the Tudor Oyster Prince Date, specifically those housing the caliber 390 movement, often sparks discussions regarding its relationship with Rolex movements, particularly the Rolex caliber 1130. This article will explore the intricacies of the Tudor 390 and its purported interchangeability with the Rolex 1130, examining the movements themselves, available parts, and the implications for collectors and watchmakers.
FEF 390 Tudor Reference: Deciphering the Nomenclature
The "FEF 390" designation isn't a standard official Tudor reference number. Instead, it's likely a shorthand used within the watchmaking community or online forums to refer to Tudor Oyster Prince Date models equipped with the caliber 390 movement. These watches, produced during a specific period, share a commonality: the use of a movement closely related to, and in some aspects interchangeable with, the Rolex 1130. Understanding the context of this shorthand is crucial to avoid confusion. Precise identification requires examining the watch's caseback for the official Tudor reference number, which will vary depending on the specific model, dial, and case variations.
FEF 390 Tudor Movement: A Closer Look at Caliber 390
The Tudor caliber 390 is a self-winding automatic movement known for its robust construction and reliability. It's a workhorse movement that powered a significant number of Tudor Oyster Prince Date watches. While sharing a strong family resemblance to Rolex movements of the era, it's not a direct clone. Instead, it represents a cost-effective and highly reliable alternative produced during a time when Rolex and Tudor shared a close manufacturing relationship. The caliber 390 features a date function, typically displayed through a window at the 3 o'clock position. Key characteristics include:
* 17 Jewels: A standard number of jewels for automatic movements of this era, contributing to smooth operation and reduced friction.
* Beryllium Hairspring (potentially): While not universally confirmed for all 390 movements, some examples are believed to feature a beryllium hairspring, a material known for its superior shock resistance and isochronism (consistent oscillation). This is a significant detail that differentiates it from some Rolex counterparts.
* Hacking Seconds (potentially): Some, but not all, 390 movements possess a hacking seconds function, allowing the seconds hand to stop when the crown is pulled out for precise time setting. This feature wasn't standard across all production runs.
* Rotor Design: The automatic winding rotor design will differ subtly from Rolex counterparts, though the overall function remains the same.
Rolex 1120 Parts and their Relevance to the 390:
The Rolex caliber 1120 is often mentioned in conjunction with the Tudor 390 and the Rolex 1130 due to its close relationship within the Rolex movement family. While not directly interchangeable with the 390, some parts *might* share similarities. However, direct interchangeability is unlikely without modification or careful selection. The 1120, a predecessor to the 1130, offers a glimpse into the design philosophy and component choices that informed the development of both the 1130 and the 390. Understanding the 1120's architecture helps contextualize the potential for parts compatibility.
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